è Report #15 – April 03 – 07, 2008

We left Sevastopol, Ukraine, at 6pm on April 3 and overnight, sailed through the Black Sea.  Periodically, during the next day we were treated to commentary by our Holland America port lecturer, Barbara, as we sailed southwest through the Bosporus Strait, Sea of Marmara and the Dardanelles, on our way to our next port in the Aegean Sea.  Barbara pointed out the beauty, history, and importance of this strategic waterway, by offering many interesting facts and stories.  Strategically it is the only passage between the Black Sea and the Mediterranean, and as such has been the focus of frequent conflicts in the past.

Perhaps the most significant battle in recent history was the Battle of Gallipoli, during WW I (April 1915 – December 1915), when Allied soldiers from Britain, Australia, New Zealand, India and France fought and lost against the Ottoman Turks.  Historians conclude that the Allies underestimated the strength and determination of the Turks, as they tried to capture the Ottoman capital city of Istanbul.  In the end, over 300,000 died and 200,000 were wounded on both sides.  In 1934, as a memorial to the thousands of Turkish and Anzac (Australian & New Zealand) troops who died at Gallipoli and as a reminder that there is no glory in war, President Mustafa Atatürk of Turkey wrote a moving speech saying – Those heroes that shed their blood and lost their lives… you are now lying in the soil of a friendly country. Therefore rest in peace. There is no difference between the Johnnies and the Mehmets where they lie side by side here in this country of ours… You, the mothers who sent their sons from far away countries, wipe away your tears. Your sons are now lying in our bosom and are in peace. After having lost their lives on this land they have become our sons as well.  His words are now inscribed at a national memorial at Anzac Cove, near the city of Gallipoli.

After sailing by Gallipoli and through the last portion of the Dardanelles, we entered the Aegean for an overnight sail to Santorίni.  On Friday, April 4, we awoke to what first looked like a snow-capped Greek island.  OK, not true - but, when approaching Santorίni by sea, the bright white buildings on the top of the dramatic cliffs do actually look like snow.  Santorίni is not just one island, but a group of four (each with individual names), that resulted from a catastrophic volcanic eruption between 1450-1550BC.  The islands are one land mass, with watery separations where the rim of the volcano is now submerged.

A pre-arranged tour gave us a chance to see a bit of each part of the main and largest island, Thίra, and its two main cities - Fίra and Oίa (pronounced Eee-A).  Fίra is the capital and largest city, with a lot of nightclubs, hotels and cafés.  Oίa, to the very north, is the second largest city and has a quieter and more artistic feel.  Having a beer at a cliffside café in Oίa gave us a spectacular view of the MSAmsterdam anchored within the ring of islands that make up the Santorίni group.  On our drive from Oίa to Fίra we saw the beaches and an airport on the low lying eastern side, a sharp contrast to the high cliffs on the west.

Having arrived in Fίra by bus from the east, there were three ways to get down the cliff to the docks below where tenders awaited.  The 800 to 900 rocky steps down made walking less than appealing, but the cable car seemed way too easy.  We elected the third choice - donkeys.  Our donkey guide more or less turned us loose, but thankfully the donkeys knew just what to do and it was an interesting ride down the switchback path!  Once back to sea level, there was another café and time for some beer, spinach pies and fava peas with another couple, before jumping on the last tender headed back to the ship.

Sailing the Adriatic towards Venice on April 5 was calm and pleasant, with classes, lectures and activities to keep everyone happy (if that’s ever possible).  Mid-morning April 6, we sailed into the Venetian Lagoon and down the San Marco Canal (a deep channel) to the Ship Terminal.  As we slowly moved along, port lecturer Barbara pointed out the major sites as they became visible.  The Piazza San Marco (St. Mark’s Square), the Basilica, and the Doge’s Palace (Palazzo Ducale) seemed almost close enough to touch.  This fantastic “City of Water” has 117 islands in all, is laced with 150 canals, and has more than 400 bridges – all ready to be explored.

Since we had been to Venice several years ago, we decided to tour on our own and once docked, took off with maps in hand.  The pier was located not far from the Piazza Roma and the Ferrovia Train Station, both at the west end of the Grand Canal.  We chose that as our starting point for a walk along the 2 ½ mile Grand Canal.   There is no such thing as just walking along the Canal, as sometimes you’re along side and other times you have to cut in a street or two and then weave your way back out.  Also, just in case you don’t know, the Canal is not straight – it’s in the shape of a backwards “S” and even with maps in hand, finding your way can really be a challenge.  After almost eight hours of seeing many truly magnificent buildings (12^th – 17^th century), crossing the Rialto and the two other bridges of the canal (there are only three total) and sampling wine and beer at a few cafés, we dragged ourselves back to the ship for a good nights sleep.

On day two, we decided to save our feet and ride the vaporetto (water bus) shuttle from the ship directly to Piazza San Marco.  The weather was bright and sunny and the piazza was packed with people, vendors and pigeons.  Even so, if you stand in the middle and do a slow 360° twirl, you’ll know why the piazza is called the heart of Venice, with the opulent, five-domed, Basilica di San Marco as its anchor.  After a respectable amount of time to admire, we ventured down the narrow side streets and into the maze of shops and people.  Murano glass was everywhere in every form – vases, bowls, lamps, jewelry – and we were glad given the value of the US dollar against the Euro, that we bought what we wanted a few years ago.  With no interest in shopping, our goal turned to finding the perfect place for a typical Venetian lunch.  Mission accomplished!  A great outside café, complete with tablecloths and china, had what we thought looked like the perfect menu.  After pasta, fish, salad, desert and beer and wine, we waddled off to catch the 3pm vaporetto back to the ship.

At 5pm, with champagne popping and music playing, we sailed back out the San Marco Canal and waved good-bye to Venice and those waving to us from shore.  We were off to Split, Croatia for another new and exciting adventure.