è Report #14 - March 28 – April 02, 2008

We left Alexandria, Egypt, late on March 27 heading to Istanbul, Turkey.  The route of travel was via the Mediterranean Sea, to the Aegean, then through the Dardanelles (strait) and the Sea of Marmara, until we reached Istanbul, at the southernmost end of the Bosporus.  We arrived on schedule at 12N, March 29, and docked within view of the Old City.

Istanbul is the only city in the world split between two continents (Europe & Asia) and while Ankara is the capital, Istanbul is Turkey’s cultural and financial center.  In its long history, Istanbul served as the capital city of the Roman Empire (330-395), the Byzantine Empire (395-1204 and 1261-1453), the Latin Empire (1204-1261), and the Ottoman Empire (1453-1922).  In 1923, Turkey achieved independence and its first president was Mustafa Atatürk.

Our afternoon tour of the city began with a visit to the Roman Hippodrome (now a park), where gladiators performed and chariots raced. In the middle of the park stands an obelisk from the Temples of Karnak in Egypt (c.1500BC) brought to Turkey in 390AD.  Nearby is the grand Sultanahmet Mosque, known as the Blue Mosque, with its six minarets.  It was completed in 1616 and until the 19^th century was the traditional starting point for pilgrimages to Mecca.  The main dome is supported by four marble piers and is flanked on four sides with semi-domes which act like the flying buttresses of many European cathedrals.  From inside the Mosque, the dome is inspiring in its size and beautifully adorned with paintings and Iznik tiles.

On to the Hagia Sofia (pronounced - ai ya Sophia), originally a church constructed between 325-360AD.  The new, much larger church opened in 537 during the rein of Emperor Justinian and was the world’s largest church for almost 1,000 years.  In 1453, on the Turkish conquest of Istanbul, Mehmet II ordered it be converted into a mosque and in 1935, President Atatürk declared it be preserved as a national monument.  This incredible and historic church/mosque is open today for all to see and enjoy.  Most tours of Istanbul, including ours, end with a “carpet demonstration.”  Although we had a “we’re not buying strategy”, it must have been the Turkish tea and whatever was in it that got us to change our minds.  Whatever it was, we are now the proud owners of a colorful Turkish carpet that will be added to our soon-to-be-redecorated bedroom at home.

After a short break back on ship, we sped off to sample the nightlife of Istanbul with about 100 of our closest friends.  At the Kervansaray Night Club we had an authentic Turkish dinner and drinks, followed by a show with three gorgeous belly dancers and a couple guys doing some folk dancing.  The show was slanted toward the men in the audience, for sure!  A multi-lingual singer turned comedian finished with a more westernized act, giving us a look at modern Turkey – not much different than home.

On March 30, it was off to the Asian side for a scenic view from the highest point and then back to the European side to visit Topkapi Palace, the official residence of the Ottoman Sultans (1453-1922).  Originally built by Sultan Mehmet II in 1453, the palace is now a museum consisting of courts, pavilions, mosques, fountains and a rich treasury section, where the Spoonmaker’s Diamond (86-carat) and the emerald and diamond studded Topkapi Dagger are housed.  After the tour, we stayed in Old Town to visit a few shops in the Grand Bazaar area and talk to some locals, who spoke excellent English and wanted to talk to us “Americans.”

At night we had a special Grand World Voyage Signature Event, hosted by Stein Kruse, the President & CEO of Holland America, and Mrs. Linda Kruse.  Mr. & Mrs. Kruse and an entourage from Seattle had flown in a few days earlier, something we were told they had done for the last few World Cruises.  The event was held (can you believe this) inside the oldest cistern in Istanbul, the 224-columned Bindirdirek Cistern, built in 330AD.  About 600 people attended and were treated to great food and music and interactive experiences ranging from fortune tellers to shoe shiners and Turkish food vendors kiosks.  In addition to our hosts, Stein and Linda Kruse, the US Ambassador to the Republic of Turkey, Ross Wilson, and other dignitaries were there to say hello.  Lastly, the security was subtle but visible, with lots of big men in dark suits around the perimeter of the cistern and at all the entrances.  Although we were tired from the day, once back on the ship we stayed up to see the unforgettable fireworks display, from the inner harbor, as the Amsterdam set sail for Sochi, Russia, at midnight.

The next day, March 31, was Mariner Appreciation Day, as proclaimed by Stein Kruse and the Captain.  Mariners are those passengers who have sailed at least once (over 10 days) with Holland America, so everyone onboard is covered – by a mile.  To kick the day off, there was a morning presentation where Stein Kruse gave an update on Holland America (kind of a state of the cruise line report), announced Mumbai (Bombay) as the location for the 2009 Grand World Voyage Signature Event (the 2009 voyage is almost sold out) and announced the itinerary for the 2010 World Voyage.  Talk about creating a feeding frenzy - passengers (not us) were jumping over each other to get to the onboard booking agent to hold their favorite cabin for 2010.  In the evening, the dress was formal, the dinner was elegant and the show was opera.

After a short night’s sleep, is was up early on Tuesday, April 1, in order to get our Russian landing cards from Sochi immigration, a requirement to get off the ship.  Unfortunately, it was gray, foggy and cold and we had booked a tour into the Caucasian Mountains, on the hopes of having the best scenic views of the area.  It didn’t happen.  On our way up the mountain to Krasnaya Polyana Nature Reserve, we stopped at a bee farm (this is not an April Fool’s joke) for some Russian pancakes with honey and alpine herbal tea.  We were freezing, so it was a welcome treat.  Krasnaya Polyana was just a ski area that had closed for the season, so there was little to see or do.  On the way back down the mountain, the guide talked about the 2014 Olympics that will be held in Sochi and how they are working on all the plans.  From what we saw, they better get going.  We bought a few things (2014 Olympic related) and visited another new country, so we considered the day a success.

On Wednesday, April 2, we arrived in Sevastopol, Ukraine, a historic city located on the southern portion of the Crimean Peninsula.  Ukraine became independent in 1991 (capital – Kiev) and shares partial borders with Russia, Belarus, Poland, Slovakia, Hungary, Romania and Moldova.  During the Crimean War (1854-1855) the cities of Sevastopol and Balakhava were important sites and our all-day tour began with a drive through both cities, followed by a view of the “Valley of Death” at the Battle of Balaklava (1854 - Charge of the Light Brigade).  Our destination was Livadia Palace, in Yalta, about two hours away from Sevastopol.

Livadia Palace is the famous summer residence of the last Russian Emperor, Nicholas II, and the site of the 1945 Yalta Conference, where Roosevelt, Churchill and Stalin outlined the future of postwar Europe.  The first floor of the palace is dedicated to photos, furniture and archives from the Yalta Conference and the second floor, to photos and a few belongings of Emperor Nicholas II and his family.  Our tour guide spoke terrific English and was a wealth of knowledge about the history.  She was less than forthcoming when asked questions about the Ukrainian economy and politics, so no one pressed her.  Lunch was in a beautiful restaurant on the palace grounds, complete with china, crystal, silver, authentic Ukrainian foods and entertainment and – vodka!  While we sampled only a tiny portion of this new country, our visit was enriched by what we learned and the many friendly and hospitable people we met.

Our next adventure will be, after an evening sail through the Black Sea, sailing through the historic Bosporus, the Sea of Marmara and the Dardanelles, in daylight on April 3.  After that, it’s on to Santorini, Greece.